by Max Marbut
Staff Writer
North Florida is the home of some outstanding barbecue, but since Rick Eplawy, executive chef at the Omni Hotel, returned from his recent culinary excursion to Argentina, that cuisine is poised to take on a new meaning.
Eplawy was part of a 40-person group of the hotel chain’s food and beverage professionals selected to take part in a food and wine excursion to Argentina last summer. Their purpose was to learn about the country’s cuisine and customs in order to bring the experience back to the hotels and their guests.
They were guided by some of Argentina’s most well-known hosts, caterers and instructors from the country’s top culinary schools. They visited vineyards and wineries and were entertained at several private homes where they experienced first-hand what “asado” – lots of Argentine-style meat plus a celebration of fellowship – is really like.
“They wanted us to understand how much food is intertwined with life in Argentina. We learned a lot about their food preparation methods and cooking techniques, but we also learned about their culture,” said Eplawy.
One of the first things the group discovered when they arrived was that an “asado” is much more than a backyard barbecue. The entire process takes a couple of days to prepare and while the food is centered around beef, lamb and goat cooked outdoors over an open fire, it’s the experience that makes it unique.
Eplawy said one of their most memorable and colorful asado hosts was Gustavo Gercovich, who retired to Argentina after a career in medicine in the United States.
“He told us his formula for perfect asado is friends, meat, a bowl of salad, a brunette, wine and a nap,” said Eplawy. “It’s a real ritual and it’s all meat. We had just two small bowls of salad for a group of 20 people.”
Another thing that makes asado different from American-style barbecue is how much of the cow, goat or lamb is prepared for cooking. Like most cultures, nothing is discarded in Argentina and virtually everything from nose to tail ends up on the grill. Adapting the cuisine to satisfy American tastes was part of the task facing Eplawy and his fellow Omni chefs when they got home and began developing the new “Sumptuous Flavors of Argentina” for the hotels.
“The menu includes choice and prime cuts of beef along with Patagonian salmon and a chicken dish. Our goal is to continually offer new flavors and experiences for our guests, whether they are business travelers or local people who come to enjoy our restaurant and hospitality,” he said.
Guests will also notice many additions to the wine list that were discovered on the trip. Eplawy said the wine industry in Argentina has come a long way in the past two decades.
“They have been making wine there for more than 400 years, but they were just fermenting wine juice and then drinking it. Since the 1980s, their vineyard owners and wine makers have been traveling the world to learn new techniques and bring grape varieties back to Argentina. They are also experimenting with different methods of cultivation and irrigation. Argentina also has every climate known to grow good grapes from sea level to 10,000 feet in elevation and they are making some really good wines,” he said.
One area was particularly impressive.
“I think in the next 10 or 15 years, a region called ‘Mendoza’ will become the next Napa Valley,” predicted Eplawy.
In addition to a new menu for the restaurant, the adventure also led to a special getaway that will be offered at the Omni. The “Discover Argentina” package will be available on select weekends in November, January and February. It includes a private cooking class that will put guests in Eplawy’s brand-new “Chef’s Kitchen” for a couple of hours of instruction and wine tasting. It’s designed to be an interactive experience similar to being part of a Food Network show and the Omni Jacksonville is the first hotel to have one.
“We converted our former pastry kitchen into an area that is perfect for a group of up to 10 people to learn how this very unique cuisine is prepared and enjoyed,” said Eplawy.
After the class, the guests will enjoy a traditional Argentine dinner and overnight accommodations. They will take home a leather wine tote filled with some of the wines they sampled in the class and were served with dinner.
While the group had what he described as “some amazing experiences” on the trip, Eplawy said one of the best things he most remembers is “the concept of how Argentine business is centered around the family. It felt like home because we have a family-driven culture here at the Omni.”
For information or reservations for “Sumptuous Flavors of Argentina” or the weekend getaway package, call 355-6664.
A sample of the Omni’s “Sumptuous Flavors of Argentina”
Entrees:
• Empanadas de Carne (beef empanadas)
• Tira de Asado Braseada al Malbec (short ribs braised in wine)
• Ojo de Bife a la Parilla (grilled ribeye steak)
Sandwiches:
• Choripan con Chimichurri (grilled Argentinian-style sausage)
• El Lomo de la Parilla (grilled tenerloin)
Sides:
• Sopita de Chcio Andino con Mariscos (Andean-style shrimp and sweet corn chowder)
• Escamas de Queso Regianito (caramelized squash and arugula salad)
Desserts:
• Panqueques de Dulce de Leche (Dulche de Leche crepes)
• Budin de Pan Matizado con Dulche de Leche (bread pudding)