Gary Polletta describes the past few days as bittersweet.
He isn’t referring to the type of chocolate that goes into baked goods like those found at Edgewood Bakery.
Instead, it’s the emotions that come with the end of an era for the Murray Hill institution his family has been a part of for 27 years.
He’s known for a few days, but the public became aware Tuesday the bakery was closing March 12.
It’s been sold to restaurateur John Valentino, who has helped grow Mellow Mushroom Pizza Bakers and Burrito Gallery as even more popular dining spots in Jacksonville. Valentino will turn it into a French Pantry.
“I think French Pantry coming in is good for the neighborhood,” said Polletta. “I think Edgewood not being here is not that great.”
Bittersweet. The same sentiment many customers who strolled in early Tuesday afternoon had as they picked up their confections.
Long history of success, recent hardships
The bakery has been part of Polletta’s livelihood “for a long, long time.”
His parents, Gary and Sandy Polletta, purchased the bakery at the corner of Edgewood Avenue and Post Street in 1992 from the original owners who opened the business in 1947.
The Pollettas retired in 2014, selling the business to a couple backed by Jacksonville Jaguars owner Shad Khan’s Stache Investments.
The younger Polletta stayed on as lead baker. He saw the struggles that came with new ownership — disagreements that eventually had Stache Investments taking control after a legal battle.
A temporary closure for reorganization followed.
Stache Investments re-opened the bakery in April letting Polletta and crew make the cakes, cookies, cupcakes and other sweets that have been locally famous for decades.
Polletta kindly describes the past couple of years as having “ups and downs.” He isn’t bitter or upset about the business being sold.
“It wasn’t anything we were doing wrong,” he said of the bakery team. “They were made a good offer. You can’t change progress.”
Polletta also said he was excited about the idea of Valentino coming to the neighborhood.
“He’ll bring a new spark to the area trying rebuild itself,” he said.
The worst part was breaking the news to the bakery’s 15 employees Tuesday. After that, it was about ensuring they were OK and that customers were treated well.
After 24 years, he’ll miss the familiar faces, the families and knowing how the bakery played a role in many holidays and special occasions.
Loyal customers will feel the loss
By Tuesday afternoon, word had spread about the sale.
Many of the calls placed to the bakery were met with confirmation that yes, the last day is March 12.
Others popped in.
Kelly Walker spent several minutes peering through windows, trying to decide what to get. It was her first time there after moving into the area a couple of months ago.
“I’ve always been meaning to come by,” she said. “I thought we would have had a lot more time.”
Nash Roth is more of a regular. He often picked up baked goods for his co-workers. On this day, it was a sheet cake to celebrate two women in his office recently giving birth.
“I’ve always been one to try and buy local,” he said. “The bigger chains just don’t have the same type of tastes.”
Roth actually worked for the original owner of The French Pantry and, like Polletta, said it would be a good thing for the neighborhood. Still, he’ll miss Edgewood Bakery.
Greg Kershner will, too. He grew up with the place.
The 56-year-old started coming to the bakery around age 5 or 6 with his parents.
His 83-year-old mother still loves the cinnamon rolls. When he heard the news, he had to swing by and pick up a dozen.
Kershner works just down the street and stopped by two or three times a month.
“It’s always at least $20,” he said with a laugh.
When he told his wife of the sale, she was excited — she’s a fan of The French Pantry. He hasn’t been yet.
Kershner just knows a fond part of his childhood is closing.
“I don’t know another bakery,” he said.
Marquis and Cassandra Johnson won’t be able to get their tradition rolling.
The couple married on Dec. 13, 2014 — 12/13/14 — and bought their wedding cake from Edgewood Bakery. A pound cake with buttercream frosting.
She couldn’t eat the cake back then. He could — it was delicious. Enough so that the two decided they wanted to come back every year and have a smaller replica made for them to enjoy.
They were placing the order Tuesday with their newborn son, 3-week-old Jett, in tow.
Now they jokingly say they’ll have to get more made and keep them frozen, dealing with any frostbite.
Both like French Pantry. It’s just they like Edgewood Bakery, too.
“I wish they could keep both,” said Cassandra Johnson. “Why can’t they keep both?”
Making way for new beginning
Polletta said he expects to see quite a few familiar faces and orders leading up to the March 12 closure.
After that, Valentino will begin renovations for the second area French Pantry location that doesn’t yet have an opening date announcement.
“This is a vibrant and important neighborhood that is already undergoing significant redevelopment,” Valentino said in a news release. “I am glad for the opportunity to contribute to this in a way that I hope will provide fans of both Edgewood Bakery and The French Pantry a unique and extraordinary experience.”
Polletta said there was some discussion of possibly acquiring the bakery’s equipment and starting another bakery.
However, with four children ranging from a year old to 18 and a lack of capital, it was too big a risk. The kids are sad they won’t get plenty of doughnuts. His 3-year-old will miss the cookies and cupcakes.
“I can still bake at home,” he said with a slight smile.
Still, it’s bittersweet.
@writerchapman
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