Whistler/Blackcomb in British Columbia, Canada, is generally regarded as one of the world’s top five ski/snowboard resorts. In early March, Daily Record staff writer Mike Sharkey and seven pals went to Whistler on a week-long snowboarding trip.
WHY SNOWBOARDING?
In a nutshell, snowboarding most closely resembles surfing, only the mountain isn’t moving, and we all grew up surfing. Most of have skied before, but having grown up at the beach, snowboarding on a single board feels much more like surfing that skiing on two skis. Besides the obvious, the main difference: in surfing, you tend to pivot on your back foot, while in snowboarding, it’s much more shifting from heel to toe.
WHY WHISTLER?
A change. I have been to Winter Park in Colorado and Taos in New Mexico and many of my companions have been all over the U.S., but mostly Steamboat Springs in Colorado. We had been told Whistler was the trip to take and, despite the fact it’s on the other side of the continent, took a chance. Like many resorts, Whistler allows both skiers and snowboarders. (Note: when snowboarding first became popular, there was a fairly bitter rivalry among the two groups and some resorts still have mountains and runs set aside for specific purposes.) Other popular ski/board resorts in the states include Jackson Hole, Wyo., Park City, Utah and Sun Valley, Idaho (where local PGA pro David Duval has a place).
WHERE IS IT?
Vancouver is located in the southwest corner of Canada. It’s about a two-hour drive north of Seattle. Whistler is about 90 miles north of Vancouver, a mostly scenic drive along Vancouver Bay.
WHO AND WHAT ARE
IN VANCOUVER?
Like many West Coast cities, Vancouver is a cultural hodgepodge — Asians, natives, Australians and a few stray Americans. It’s a fairly clean city that sits on Vancouver Bay with a big hill right in the middle. Like Jacksonville, it’s growing — but at a pace we can’t fathom. There are about 2 million people and I counted almost a dozen high-rise apartment buildings/condos going up right now. About half that many high-rise offices are under construction.
GETTING THERE
Be prepared, it’s a long trip to get there and a longer trip home. We left Jacksonville on an American Airlines flight at 7 a.m. After a layover in Dallas, it was another four-and-a-half hours to Vancouver. We spent an hour clearing customs, another 45 minutes waiting on the shuttle bus for the two-and-a-half hour ride to Whistler Village. By the time we got into our rooms, it was about 7 p.m. Pacific time — with our bodies swearing it 10 o’clock.
CUSTOMS?
Yes, Canada is a foreign country and you have to clear customs before officially entering the country. And, with high international tensions, clearing customs takes a little longer these days. Here’s a hint: if you are part of a big group, have the first person tell the customs agent just that. The agent will clear you all at once. Otherwise, it’s one at a time.
BRING SNACKS
It’s no secret that the airlines have cut way back on meals during flights. You can still get as many packs of pretzels as you want, but real food is a joke — unless, of course, you spring for a first-class ticket. Take something decent to eat on the plane with you.
WHAT YOU NEED
Aside from the usual ski/snowboard equipment and appropriate clothing, you’ll need an official ID — driver’s license, preferably — and either a passport or a notarized, raised seal birth certificate to get into Canada. Don’t try to use a COPY of your birth certificate. Vancouver is too far away to have to turn around and immediately come home.
WHERE TO STAY
There are dozens of small hotels and lodges in Whistler Village. We stayed in the Pan Pacific Lodge and what great luck. Let’s see: nice rooms, spa with massage service available, steam room, Irish pub downstairs, heated pool, two jacuzzis and, oh yeah, one gondola about 50 feet from the lodge and the other about 200 feet away.
WHAT IT COSTS
The tab was about $1,200, so start saving your nickels now. That sounds like a lot, but it covered our round-trip air fare, four nights lodging, round-trip shuttle to the village and three days of lift tickets. Not bad, really. Comparatively, a five-day package trip to Steamboat runs about $1,000. But, remember: that $20 dinner in Steamboat is $20 American. Overall, the costs are about a wash.
MORE MONEY
You can spend as much or as little as you like. The current exchange rate has the Canadian dollar worth about 60 cents American; thus, when you change $100 American, you get about $160 Canadian. Good dinners run about $20 Canadian ($12 American) while beers are about $2. Both mountains have restaurants at the top of the gondola and the food is great. Just about anything you want. Bathrooms and gift shops, too.
WHAT TO DO
Outside of snowboarding or skiing during the day, not much. I mean, that’s why you go. When the mountain wears you out, there are plenty of places to eat and shops to browse through. The village has a grocery store, knickknack shops and the obligatory Starbucks — just about the only “known” dining establishment. There are also snow mobile tours available.
LESSONS?
Yes. For about $30/half hour you can get a ski or snowboard lesson. Unless you are a really good natural athlete — and not afraid to get hurt — take a lesson or two.
BAD SEASON
According to locals, this had been one of the worst seasons for snow in recent memory. The day before we left it started snowing — a lot. The married-with-kids guys made elusive phone calls home, hoping to beat around the bush long enough to get approval to stay another day (we had yet to experience Whistler’s world class powder). They were essentially told to get home; the kids miss dad. Since the second week of March, Whistler has gotten over 100 centimeters of snow.
EQUIPMENT
You can certainly take snowboard or ski equipment with you, but you can also rent anything you need. If you take your equipment, remember that’s one more big bag to keep track of. You can spend as much as you want on equipment (top-of-the-line skis and snowboards can run up to $500 while boots and bindings can be just as much). However, packages can be found. For example, I bought my snowboard, boots, bindings and board bag at Aqua East Surf Shop for $225. Similar packages can also be found on-line. Resorts rent everything, too. Boards and skis usually go for $20/day while boots and bindings cost about $15/day.
TAKE THE KIDS?
Absolutely. Whistler has a program called “Whistler Kids” which is basically all-day ski camps for small kids.
ROYALTY IN TOWN
The week we were there, the International Olympic Committee was in the village. Vancouver is trying to land the 2010 Winter Olympics and they are touting Whistler as the alpine events venue. The IOC visit and comments — they said the trip from the Vancouver airport to Whistler takes too long — dominated headlines on local news all week. The Vancouver Olympic Committee has promised to widen the scenic road, which winds along Vancouver Bay and offers some stunning views, from two to four lanes all the way. The IOC will award the bid — and the $400 million to improve the city, whichever one it is — in July.
G’DAY MATE
Lots of Australians in Whistler working as everything from ski instructors to hotel receptionists to quick-witted bartenders. Because Canada and Australia are both commonwealths of Great Britain, it’s pretty easy for Australians to get work visas in Canada. And, it’s summer Down Under right now so those who don’t surf head to ski resorts this time of year. Plenty of Japanese and English around, too.
JUST A WINTER DESTINATION?
No. In fact, in the warmer months, there’s actually more to do in Whistler than during the winter. In addition to upper glacier boarding and skiing — we’re told it’s a hairy trip, but warm enough to board with shorts on — there are golf courses and plenty of lakes for fishing and kayaking. Jacksonville City Council Auditor Bob Johnson has been to Whistler during the summer and says it’s one of the most beautiful places he’s ever been. Vancouver, too, is a popular summer vacation. It’s often called a small, friendlier version of San Francisco. And cheaper.
GETTING HOME
Same route, except in reverse. And, you’re losing time the whole way instead of gaining it. The day we left, we were up at 6:30-7 and on the shuttle bus to the Vancouver airport by 8:30. It was well after 1 a.m. Eastern Time before anyone got to bed.
WORTH IT?
Yes. It’s a long trip and a little pricey, but the resort, lodging, food and people are worth it. May become an annual destination. One change we’d recommend is staying one more day. I’d rather travel two days and board four days.
WEB SITE?
Yes, a great one. Log on to www.whistler.com. Everything from updated snow reports to travel packages to photo galleries that will appeal to virtually everyone. The question will be: do you want to go for the snowboarding and skiing or the summertime golf and fishing?