Who's cooking in the kitchen?

News

Staff Writer

You could call it “country cooking.” You could call it “comfort food.” You could call it “soul food.”

All those terms are appropriate for a menu that includes pork chops smothered in gravy, meat loaf, pulled pork, mashed potatoes, green beans, collard greens, macaroni and cheese, corn bread, peach cobbler and sweet potato pie.

Sheameka Jones, owner and chef at LeShea’s, the new restaurant at 119 W. Adams St., has another name.

“I call it ‘homestyle food with a New York twist,’” she said.

The Brooklyn native used to be in law enforcement but decided she wanted a new career and a way to satisfy her passion for cooking. It’s a skill Jones learned at an early age through on-the-job training with some time in culinary arts school sprinkled on top.

“I learned how to cook at home from my mother and my grandmother and a lot of older people,” said Jones. “I’ve been in the kitchen since I was 9 years old.”

After learning the basics, she said she began helping prepare everyday meals and holiday dinners for the family of nine. Jones is maintaining the homestyle tradition she learned as a child with family recipes and attention to detail.

“We don’t use food out of cans or boxes. Everything that comes out of this kitchen is made from scratch,” she said.

Jones also doesn’t buy produce or meat from commercial purveyors, nor does she shop at the farmer’s market.

“It would be less expensive but I couldn’t get the quality I want. Wholesale produce markets don’t take the best care of the fresh vegetables and herbs and when I’m buying meat, I don’t want what somebody wants to bring me. I like to see what I’m getting and make sure it’s what I want. I like to go to the grocery store and get the meat department manager to bring roasts out of the back. That way I can select the ones I want,” said Jones.

Before she arrived, the restaurant was a popular lunch destination for people who wanted Italian food and there’s still a Mediterranean influence.

“I’m still experimenting with the menu and getting a feel for what the people in the neighborhood like to eat,” said Jones. “The place that was here before had a tremendous following, so chicken parmigiana and spaghetti with meat sauce is still on the menu.”

The menu also offers sandwiches and burgers. Jones said her salmon croquette burger is outselling the traditional variety.

She quickly figured out that not everyone who works Downtown has the luxury of an hour for lunch. LaShea’s offers a service that’s not only for takeout but also for dine-in service. Orders called in to 354-5685 between 10-11:15 a.m. are ready for pick up or for table service as soon as a customer arrives. The restaurant also offers take-out service 3-5 p.m. when the dining room is closed after lunch.

“If you don’t feel like cooking dinner, just give me a call and you can take it home with you,” said Jones.

Preparing old family recipes is complemented by a family style philosophy, she added.

“When you walk into this restaurant, I want you to feel like you’re in my home and I want you to be comfortable. I also want to make sure nobody ever leaves here hungry.”