by Sean McManus
Staff Writer
When Vicki Dugan and attorney Robert Smith Jr. opened the Wine Cellar — as a wine cellar — in 1974, they had no idea that Jacksonville would grow as fast as it has.
Today, the old world French country atmosphere of one of the City’s oldest fine dining spots is about to become even more charming when the outdoor terrace is expanded to include a large brick grill, a new marble-topped bar and occasional live music.
“We are thinking people can sit out under the giant oak tree and have a drink and eat New Orleans-style roasted oysters after work,” said Dugan, who now owns the Southbank restaurant.
When it first opened, she thought that in addition to selling wine, the shop should feature a small bistro and garden. She began making fondue, at the time a new trend from California, and quiche — the first ever served in Jacksonville — which is still a Wine Cellar feature.
Three years later, the restaurant was expanded to seat 54 and Dugan bought the restaurant from Smith, who was involved in other ventures. The last expansion was in 1997, when the restaurant grew to accommodate 104 people. Now, Dugan wants to make the terrace a focal point of the restaurant.
Dugan stays actively involved in the menu, always bringing back new ideas from her ski trips out West. And of course, she stays current on wine selections. Her head chef is Robert Porter, who trained at Disney World and later worked at Sterling’s.
The Wine Cellar offers Asian and American influences blended with classic continental fare. It also incorporates local seafood and produce into the menu, which includes favorites such as crab cakes with tarragon and mustard caper sauce, Yukon gold potato crusted grouper served on an open roasted yellow tomato coulis and a grilled vegetable relish with garlic aioli. Dugan also recommends the filet wrapped with applewood smoked bacon, grilled and topped with roasted shallot and herbed goat cheese butter.
According to Dugan, the new hotels have helped business, but the high end restaurant business is always unpredictable. The T-U Center has brought in the symphony set, she said, “And all of the new restaurants on the Southbank help everyone.”
In addition to her restaurant, Dugan enjoys dining at L’Orient in San Marco and eats a lot of Italian.
“I’m an appetizer person,” she said. “I used to go to Medure’s in Ponte Vedra a lot.”
Last year, Dugan opened Melange, a specialty gift shop inside the Wine Cellar that features jewelry and other items such as champagne flutes and ornate wine stoppers. She goes to Atlanta to buy her favorite items such as Judith Jack jewelry, which she says fits in well with the framed posters of French wine.
In addition to skiing, Dugan likes to play golf and is an avid reader. But when it comes to the kitchen . . .
“I’m not a great cook,” she said. “I eat a lot of vegetarian.”